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Rick encounters a fishing method frozen in time, going under sail without engines or winches for what he considers to be the best oysters in the world. Back on dry land, he cooks a warming fish soup called Cullen Skink, the perfect lunch after a morning on the water.
He discovers the surprising story behind Charles Napier Hemy's famous painting of oystermen at work and the equally surprising story of Cornwall's former capital, now the sleepy town of Lostwithiel but once a cosmopolitan and internationally significant port, which boasted an important political and administrative complex of buildings.