It's the second phase of Alexander Armstrong's journey around South Korea, where he continues his exploration of its bustling capital Seoul. He takes a water taxi across the great River Han, then heads for its historical centre, where he marvels at the splendour of the 14thcentury Gyeongbokgung Palace. He takes in the colourful changing of the guard ceremony after being guided around the palace grounds and shown the intricate architecture of the throne area. After stopping off for one of Korea's favourite meals, fried chicken and beer, made and served by robots, he heads to the famous Yangnyeongsi herbal medicine market, the mecca of South Korea's traditional medicine industry. He learns about the health properties of deer antler and dried frog, before meeting a ginseng brew master who supplies Alexander with a warming cup of Korean red ginseng tea. Alexander heads for another of Seoul's street markets, a vintage clothing emporium that has become the go-to place for Korea's over-65s – who are now leading the way in street fashion. He meets a young photographer whose mission is to snap these senior hipsters and he speaks to some of the models. Alexander then heads for a traditional and hearty lunch of chueo-tang (eel soup) in a restaurant that only serves eels — five ways. Freshly energized, Alexander heads across town to learn traditional North Korean dancing from a North Korean defector before learning how and why she escaped to the South. He then observes how taekwondo has become South Korea's national sport, followed by a visit to a tarot card reader who looks into his future. Later, Alexander meets the country's top folk drummer, who gives him a lesson in how to play the 10th-century Korean jjango drum. Alexander then takes a quick detour away from Seoul to the country's industrial capital Ulsan, where visits the cultural museum to find out the origins of South Korea's international TV hit Squid Game. Here he's pitched against children in a game of Red Light, Green Light and the Dalgona Candy Challenge. Alexander then returns to Seoul for his last evening in the capital for a special rooftop concert performed by his jjango drum tutor.