Former cabinet minister and broadcaster Michael Portillo embarks on a journey of self-discovery, walking stretches of the Pyrenees mountain range between Spain and France. In the first leg of his quest, Michael explores the Spanish Basque region, an area that has fought to maintain its own independence and unique culture, and which is integral to Michael's own heritage. His Spanish father and Scottish mother met through their shared interest in helping Basque refugee children who had fled to Britain after the bombing of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War.

Michael Portillo continues his Pyrenean challenge, this time in the wild beauty of southwest France's Ariege region. Embarking on a journey of discovery, braving relentless rain, he begins by visiting a young couple from Luxembourg who left city life behind to become pig farmers. Magali and Christian wanted to escape the rat race and live a more fulfilling life, but they've have had to learn the ropes fast. Michael lends a hand feeding the pigs and samples some of the farm's delicacies. Climbing higher into the mountainous terrain, he shelters in a mountain cabin with seasoned hiker Patrice Tessiere Dufour. Over a hearty lunch, he learns about the customs and culture of the Pyrenees and its people. Michael ends his day at an abbey in the company of Benedictine nuns. He explores the daily life of the community and has to admit he is not a believer. Taking a break from walking, Michael visits an equestrian centre to uncover the history of the Merens horse, native to this region. Despite being a novice, Chloe Alazard persuades Michael to have a go at riding and, once in the saddle, he ‘feels like a Pyrenean cowboy'. Delving into a dark chapter of the region's past, Michael discovers the story of the Cathars, a Christian sect that flourished in this Pyrenean region in the 13th century. Labelled heretics by the Roman Catholic church, many were killed for their beliefs in a bloody crusade. Author Catherine De Courcy takes Michael into a prehistoric cave where she spent 60 hours alone to gain a deeper understanding of their spiritual lives. Michael ends his journey as he started, battling the elements. With a blizzard raging, he climbs to the hilltop ruins of the Château de Roquefixade, tracing the steps the Cathars took as they sought refuge from persecution.