Clive swerves Tuscany's famous posh villas to head to the mediaeval town of Barga, where over half the locals have Scottish connections. Staying in a mansion that's now a Glaswegian-run B&B, Clive finds out why Italians love a fish supper, finds himself cooking dinner for 14, and joins an expedition to discover the forgotten quartz quarry that helped make Tuscany's capital Florence so beautiful.

Clive tries to make Tiramisu in the nearby town of Treviso, heads to the lakeside village of Limone to discover the secret to a long and healthy life, and finds out the story behind Europe's most northerly lemons. He also finds out how the balcony inspired by Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet now inspires lovers from around the world.