Clive heads north from Lazio's capital, Rome, to the dramatic valleys of Italy's badlands, out of which rises the fairy-tale citadel of Civita di Bagnoregio - Lazio's ghost town.

Meeting one of the 20 remaining residents, Clive finds out what it's like to be outnumbered by a million annual visitors, and he explores the ancient tunnels beneath the town to discover why it's slowly crumbling to dust.

As long as the water's warm, Clive loves to swim, so he's enthusiastic about taking a dip in the vast volcanic spring of Saturnia and discovering why Italians believe in the healing power of thermal water. Travelling on through Maremma - a big stretch of country running between Tuscany and Lazio - Clive stays in a treehouse at a lavender farm and learns how to extract oil from the plants.