The North Esk south of Edinburgh is a hidden gem. Paul follows it from the Pentland Hills through a landscape steeped in myth and legend. From the picturesque and delightful Habbie's Howe, he reaches Roslin Glen, which inspired some of our greatest artists and writers - especially the mysterious Rosslyn Chapel on the cliffs above. The power of the river was later harnessed for papermaking. Paul discovers the legacy of industry before heading to ancient Musselburgh on the coast near Edinburgh.

This surprising grand tour follows the river Ythan in rural Aberdeenshire, which flows through a landscape of wheat fields and haunted castles and on to a coast rich in wildlife. On the way, Paul Murton learns how to make a haystack, speak the local 'Doric' and has a ghostly encounter with a woman in Fyvie Castle. He visits Gight Castle, the ruined home of poet Lord Byron's family. Journey's end is at the mouth of the river, where sand dunes have created Scotland's version of the Sahara.