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All roads ... or in this case, railways, lead to Zermatt, where Griff's train deposits him beneath the shadow of the Matterhorn. Here, he explores what happens when postcard perfection meets Swiss precision. Between feasts and Alpine huts that cling to cliffs, Griff learns the art of mountain survival ... and punctuality. He meets climbers who treat the Matterhorn like an old friend, and tests his lungs (and patience) at altitude, discovering that cowbells and cuckoo clocks are never far away.