Lake Chuzenji lies in the highlands of northwest Tochigi Prefecture, above the city of Nikko. Thanks to its altitude, it became a popular summer resort for foreign embassy officials during the Meiji Period (1868-1912). One of the first to discover its beautiful scenery was Ernest Satow, a British diplomat and linguist who had a major influence on Japan as it opened up to the world. Satow built his villa on the lakeshore, and often visited in search of recreation and relaxation. On this episode of Journeys in Japan, Alfie Goodrich explores Lake Chuzenji in the guise of Ernest Satow. He visits some of the locations that Satow would have known, and also travels to other areas in Tochigi where modern-day approaches to recreation and relaxation have taken root.

For centuries, the ancient Tokaido highway was the most important road in all Japan. It linked Kyoto, the emperor's capital, with Edo, the city of the shoguns, now known as Tokyo. These days, the old road has mostly been paved over for modern traffic. But there's still a long section where visitors can walk along the original route. Known as Hakone Hachiri, it runs between Odawara (in Kanagawa Prefecture) and Mishima (Shizuoka Prefecture) and it offers many glimpses of the history and traditions of Japan's feudal period. Visitors will see the original stones paving the road; giant cedar trees lining the route; a centuries-old tea house; traditional crafts shops; and hot springs where weary travelers still stop to ease their aching legs. On this episode of Journeys in Japan, Michael Keida discovers many reminders of old Japan, while hiking along Hakone Hachiri.