The Shikoku Pilgrimage involves visiting 88 Buddhist temples spread across Shikoku, the smallest of Japan's four main islands. The route is 1,200 kilometers long, and to walk it takes around 50 days, although most people today ride in a car or bus for at least part of the journey. The pilgrimage can be traced back to Kukai, a 9th-century Buddhist high priest who reached enlightenment in the wilds of Shikoku. These days, many older people undertake the pilgrimage as a way of reflecting on their lives. Many young people do it to find out more about themselves. On this edition of BEGIN Japanology, our theme is the Shikoku Pilgrimage. We'll look at traditional expressions of religious faith and examine the challenges of modern life.

The first department store appeared in Japan about 110 years ago. It evolved from a kimono shop. With their world-class goods, department stores soon became popular as centers of culture and of the latest trends. They also began featuring family-friendly attractions like large dining halls and rooftop amusement parks. The signature feature of a Japanese department store today is a group of restaurants on an upper floor coupled with an area in the basement where food is sold. These top and bottom culinary areas draw customers up and down through the rest of the floors. From concierges to personal stylists, Japanese department stores have always worked to meet the customer's every need. A few stores still even employ old-fashioned elevator operators. On this edition of BEGIN Japanology, our theme is department stores. We'll see how they became closely linked with Japanese lifestyles and delve into their unique appeal.